Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
